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25 April 2012

Bahama Banking


“Wouldst thou,” so the helmsman answered, “ /  Learn the secret of the sea?/  Only those who brave its dangers/  Comprehend its mystery.”        Longfellow

Things overheard in the Bahamas-
     You got to sweep in front of your own stoop, den all the worl’ be clean.
     All kinda flyin’ right.     Who da H E double hok.
     Spankadotious jeep.     All dem udder tings.     Spiralin’.
We had a wonderful time in the Northern Abacos/ Bahamas.  We crossed the Gulf Stream from West Palm Bch., FL to West End, Grand Bahama which is about 60 nautical miles.  We left in the dark, about 4 am and steered south of our waypoint at West End to counter the 2.5 knot average northerly current of the Stream which begins roughly 10 miles out from the East coast of FL.  It was a little rough in the beginning against the tide but we had a fairly good motorsail across.  Saw our first (of many) flying fish.  They can actually fly, sometimes as much as a hundred yards over the wave tops.  Very spankadotious.  Even got a few on deck.  We spent two nights at the resort marina at West End and then sailed NW across the little bahama bank (the overdraft charges are even worse than Providence Bank) in an average of 8 feet of water and anchored off the small deserted cay (key) Mangrove Cay.  We had buddy sailed with a Brit- Richard-(thanks for the lure, Richard, we caught a 30” mahi-mahi 4 miles out from Lake Worth- delish) and his partner- Mari, a Philipino,  from FL. But they decided that this open water/ deserted cay thing was not for them, and turned back.  Mari was very anxious about pirates, sharks, death, etc.  and we all know and sympathize that anxiety and fear are no fun at all.  In fact, after three weeks of being in the Bahamas, with some heavy winds (a whitish squall), shallow water, uncertain anchorages, culture shock, etc. etc. Jan and I became quite exhausted by the constant anxiety, and were totally ready to be teleported back home.  Nevertheless, the seafood, the snorkeling, the crystalline waters, the adventure, the sunsets, the fishing, the sights, the bird sightings, the beachcombing, and the beer ( You want “Sands” or “Kalik” not “Eclipse”) and the friendly, kind people, made it all worth while.  In spades.
Early one morning, anchored off Double-Breaster Cays,  while ensconced upon our electric porcelain throne, I hear Jan exclaim- “Oh no, Dave, our dinghy’s gone!” .  I’m thinking , Yeah, right, you can’t fool me- well, you can, but not this morning..  Sure enough, I poked my head up out of the hatch, “and there, much to my surprise”  was no dinghy.  After two frantic hours of searching up and down the shore and calling on the radio, we were just leaving when we got a reply on 16 that someone had found our dinghy, and would bring it out to us.  Soon, a one-armed man and his family, in an old, beat-up 17’ boat arrived with our dinghy in tow and really made our day.  They even taught us how to harvest the conch from a huge shell I had found.  We gave them $40 and Jan had some books and toys for the kids so we hope they were as happy as we were.  We had come back from an excursion to the beach the night before and I had clipped the davit line to a rope on the dinghy instead of the hoisting u-fitting , so with the bouncing during the night, a knot came loose and she was free .  The current swept it thru a small cut bordered with razor-sharp coral rock and into the inner bay.  We felt very fortunate, especially because of all the dire tales we heard out there.  Lost dinghys, dragging anchors, groundings, loss of generators, loss of engines, and even one night at the dock, an old man flatlined on a boat just down from us, so there were sirens and lights and a real brouhaha.  They resuscitated him and hauled him away to Freeport on a gurney.  A couple weeks later, when we returned to the same marina, the guy on the boat said the old guy was flying back out and was continuing their cruise.  Never say die. “They wanted me to go to rehab/ I said ah NO, No, NO.”   Others had the flu, sea sickness, and food poisoning.  “I can’t help it if I’m Lucky.”
     At Little Grand Cay, Jason took me out to the reef (on the Atlantic side, Bob could be on the boat in 20’ of water and throw a potato into 600’ depths, the bottom is so steep) and we caught about a dozen yellow tail in 2 hours.  Best fish I ever ate.  I had a nice yellowtail on when suddenly I felt a ginormous hit and a 3’ barracuda leapt 12’ into the sunlight flashing.  When I reeled in only the head of the yellow was on the hook.  Whoa, Nellie!  Spektakularishous!
Birds-     night heron,  various sand pipers, plover,  black-headed gull, green heron, boat-tailed grackle,  common gallinule, anhinga, a million egrets, pelicans, herons (great blue/Louisiana/great white, etc.) , terns, ducks,scoters, coots, osprey, bald eagles, and wonderfully the black-necked stilt and the swallowtailed kite.  A lot of these were on the Okeechobee waterway which technically makes the southern half of FL an island. 
Fauna-  Sea turtles, needle fish, rays, wahoo, alligators by the ton, dolphin (speckled), lots of cool unident. reef fish, jelly-fish, mahi-mahi,  conch, star fish, manatee, barracuda, sharks, lobster, etc…..and even a camel.
Our favorite marina is in Stuart, FL, where we stayed on a mooring ball for $15/nite and had new showers, restrooms, lounge w/ big/screen, groceries, bicycles, groceries, laundry, all nearby and best of all visited with our buddies Doug and Maxine Snyder who had a condo just up the road.  In Stuart check out a new bistro-  Be Merry.
New music-  Adele     Old Music-  Lil Ed and the Imperials at Jensen Beach.
Headin’ back to Punta Gorda and then to S. Carolina and then Mich. by June w/ the van.







 People of the World, Relax!                                                                                                                                              Hi Ho

29 March 2012

ACROSS THE PENINSULA

(In the style of Penny Vincenzi et al)


Hello Dahlings,  
     It’s been such an unconscionably long time since we last corresponded, I realize, but we haven’t disappeared into the Mystic as yet.   We’ve just been having such a marvelously glorious time that we have started to become complacent.  I seem to recall vaguely that we left ourselves in the simply diverting environs of old Key West.  Heading west from there,  we stopped at the perfectly enchanting deserted islet of  Boca Grande and thence to the Dry Tortugas- quite possibly the southernmost point of the good old USA.  If you ever have the chance, definitely make your way out there.  The old, massive fort is absolutely mind-boggling (boggle, boggle) especially if you’ve ever carried hod or laid a brick.  Intertwining arches and spiral staircases insist that you drop your trowel in hopeless wonderment.  How did they DO that?  14 million bricks.  The clear aqua marine waters exude a timeless peace and gave us a view of two 300 pound jewfish under our keel (they set off our depth alarm)! 
Our gracious host, Ruth Decker

A clean boat is a happy boat

Whuh is that thing?
     We thence embarked on a nocturnal crossing in the beastly black of night to Fort Myers, fortuitously met up with Jim ( thanks for the EPIRB, bro- it could be a lifesaver) and Jan and cohorts for a pleasant day sail, and made our way back to Punta Gorda for a month’s sabbatical ashore.  We left the west coast of Fla. and crossed the Okeechobee Waterway to Stuart on the Atlantic coast in a week.  Saw many birds, the most exquisite of which, the swallow-tailed kite.  And also, many gators and a few manatee.  Mistily still mornings and oddly significant sunsets.
    
We moored at the new Sunset Bay Marina in Stuart for $15 /nite, wherein the showers, lounge, and amenities are extraordinarily lavish, and had a perfectly splendid time with Doug and Maxine who serendipitously have a gorgeous condo ½ hour north on Hutchinson Isl. We are now tied up in Riviera Beach provisioning, laundering, and awaiting the most propitious moment to venture out into the Gulf Stream for our first crossing in the beastly Atlantic to West End on the island of Grand Bahama.  We’ll let you know how life is in Paradise, he said superciliously. 
                                                                                                           All our love,  JK and David.

12 February 2012

CAYO HUESO BLOWDOWN





BEAR-  Put this to music-  Who knows?


When we pulled into Key West Bight
Don’t ya know we were feeling alright
‘Though we smelled like the man on the rag tag bike,
We put on our shoes and took a slow hike.
Saw the woman who went crazy on Caroline Street.
The old bakery with Cubano and fresh peach Danish treats.
Frangipani blossoms and Madagascar palms
Beggar on the corner hustling for alms.

We tied up our boat and took down our bikes
We tried,  but we couldn’t see all the sights.
Had to dodge around all the free fighting--cocks
And count all the schooners at the deep water docks.
Appledore, Western Union, and America 2
Our ketch ain’t a schooner but she’ll just have to do.

A bearded man standing in Hemingway’s bar
Busy rolling up all those loose-leaf cigars.
I almost bought a cherry-- flavor stogie,
But I knew I’d end up feeling just  like Bogie.
So instead, I slapped that wig hat on my head
Drank another Heiny--wished my own locks were dread.
Mike McCloud sang about Chevy on the Levity
Doesn’t Don know anything about song writing brevity?

We were hunkered down in Key West Town, the wind was a-blowin the salt air around,
30 knots of cold Northwind , thought we’d be eating a tamarind.
In the mooring field off of Sigsbee Park,
The howl in the rigging got worse in the dark.
We considered dingying back into town
But, on the way back out, kinda thought we might drown.
So we missed the masked ball and the Schooner Wharf bar
But Dave felt like a “salt” and Jan felt like a “tar”.

Supper last night was fish patties in sauce
Jan in the galley is really the boss
We’re surrounded by ketches and cutters and cats
Derelicts, gold-platers, sheer lines, and flats.
We pity the fools on the NW side,
In a low pressure front that ain’t nowhere to hide
Boats from Kemah,Texas, New Gate, and Wisconsin,
Some dinks have an Evinrude and some have a Johnson.
Boats in tatters and cormorant shit
Good thing we have binos, because here we sit.
Port holes, biminis, stem profiles, and flags
Self-tending  stays’ls,  and gennys in bags.
What’s better?  The windmills, or the passive solar panels,
With this wind-chill factor , We’re glad to have flannels.

Manana , Dry Tortugas, if the wind will subside
Then direct to Fort Meyers is a day-night-day ride. 

 
Peace, out.
Dave and Jan
Aboard S/V Visitor,  Key West

07 February 2012

Skinny Waters- Phat Weather


Blog Shark River

We finally pulled up anchor in Punta Gorda and left the temptations of Ruth Decker’s eclairs, banana cream pie, meat loaf and other assorted goodies.   We weighed the anchor and noticed it too had gained a few pounds over the holidays. 
Made our way south and stayed on a mooring ball at Fort Meyers Beach.  There’s a  new paradigm throughout  Florida.  Instead of boaters anchoring wherever there may be a spot, Florida is trying out a system of mooring fields in harbors.  We were pleasantly surprised at our first mooring ball experience.  For a nominal fee ($13.00 a day), we were provided a dingy dock, showers, pump-out, fresh water, and laundry room. 
From the busyness of the beach we sailed south for the ten thousand islands with a quick over-niter at Marco Island.
 The trade winds have been out of the East almost every day and it is great to be actually sailing again. I am sure we must look smart with our main sail, jib, and jenny out.  We also had our drifter flying with its University of Florida (go gators) colors too. 
  Thanks to Lee, Marlene and Nels  Sonderfan’s friend,  for guiding us into Rabbit Key Pass.  What a trip worming our way through the mangroves and watching the GPS reading less than five feet.  We had such a great anchorage though,  that we stayed an extra day to view the magnificent stars, visit with locals, and do some site seeing in Everglade City.  The Sonderfans cooked us crab cakes and trout, served fresh veggies from the area and insisted we drink their Yuengling, yum.  Our tour of the Rod and Gun Club, an ancient, semi-famous watering hole and inn in Everglades city, was awesome and seeing where Mr. Watson died was cool, too. 
Shark River is where we are now.  It is the buggiest,  most beautiful spot you can imagine.  We got trapped in paradise because after two days here, we ran out of beer and ice and were anxious to leave but, the weather had other plans for us.  Beers or no beers, when the weather lady says: “Winds gusting to 30 MPH today with small craft warnings”, I guess we can enjoy one more day in paradise. 

Lee, Marlene, Nels

 Old painting at Rod and Gun Club

 Little Shark River

I'm just waitin' on you.
That was the First Mate writing-  this is Cap'n Davey.  We had a rousing sail south from Shark River to Vaca Key (Marathon) , a course of about 50 mi. over the shallows (8') of Florida Bay.  Marathon Harbor, which has over 200 mooring balls and various marinas was full up with a waiting list so we found a nice anchorage off the north side of the key.  Only down side is that it's open to the north.  Fortunately, the predom. winds are ESE.  People are very friendly, and we have easy access to shopping etc.  Spent Sun. eve watching Eli beat up on pretty boy Tommy at the Hurricane Bar and grill.  Cool.  Have had a few rain showers to wash the salt off the boat.  We are both healthy and happy and wish the same for all y'all.  Jan and Dave

11 January 2012

THE SUNSHINE STATE (and I don't mean Florida)

This boat will be mine!

A jolly saucy crew.

Cap'n Davey, 1ST Mate Jan, Cat, and Gail (Ring), Gary, and Mrs. Ruth Decker
be careful

190 miles!!!!!

"Let's drop the big one and see what happens."


I know you are all waiting like the fisherman (with baited breath) to see if we made it across the Gulf. I'm happy to report that we are safely ensconced at Laishley Marina in Punta Gorda.  We left Appalachicola- a small town with remnants of the old working waterfront, an incredible but pricey nautical antique shop, and way too many eaterys that priced their entrees 23 instead of $23.00.  Still a nice little town, but no $2 beer.  Our weather karma was excellent in that the forecast called for light westerlies for the day, a calm, full moon night, and northeasterlies building in manana.  At 10 AM we motorsailed south out of Government Cut in the company of our cetaceous acolytes, the dolphin crew, and headed for Anclote Key in the vicinity of Tarpon Springs, 140 miles away.  The Gulf here is a clear aqua with dozens of men-of-war (beautiful balloon-shaped jellyfish) and no signs of the BP blobules.  We had a fine run oil day and a splendid sunset.  Soon the dark set in.  The moon hadn't risen yet, so we hurtled forward blindly into the darkness which was akin to driving down the road in a white out (Except it was black) and we had only the stars and the red compass light and the glow of the GPS to comfort us. A bit unsettling to say the least.  Where are those unlit oil platforms?  But, then an orange glow appeared in the East and soon all was bright by the lunaresence.  (Jan says this isn't a word, but I say now it is).  Such a night. The sudden, explosive sighs of dolphin unseen, the loom of shrimpers' lights far off shore, the running lights of another boat overtaking us slowly, and then when we were convinced they were heading for us, shearing off and passing us to port. Whew- no radio or phone contact with shore.  When came the dawn we were light-headed and ecstatic, so we decided to take advantage of the favorable winds and changed course to make landfall further South at Tampa, as Christmas was nigh and Punta Gorda (Grandmother's house) was not.  That afternoon, after a trek of 190 miles, we decided to anchor out at a wildlife key (Egmont) at the entrance to Tampa Bay just across from Fort Desoto instead of in a more protected nook because we wanted the isolation even though we might not be protected from the Northeasterlies. Well, we dropped our usual 35 lb CQR on 30' of heavy chain and 30' of rode in ten ft of water (I know, it's skinny everywhere down here) and then threw out a huge old style Luke fisherman for good luck.  We had a great evening, basking in the glow of our first salt water crossing until the NE wind really picked up to about 25 and started bouncing us around, you guessed it, about 2 am.  I got up, took a look at the little breakers on the white beach about 40' off our stern where the chart indicates a wreck- which isn't there yet-, checked the two anchors, reset the gps anchor alarm and the shallow depth alarm, climbed into my foulies, and promptly sank into a deep and dreamless sleep while silent stars went by.  Jan didn't have such a peaceful night, but the boat got cleaned up real good.  Next morning, it took some careful planning and some hard work to weigh both anchors and get off the shallows against a small gale.  We had a great ride out into the Gulf (ALWAYS watching for crab/ crack/ crock pots which will wrap around your prop} and then south to Venice under main and yankee jib.  Anchored in a tight little spot off Venice Yacht Club that night, and in the morning, exited the easy, wide channel out of Venice and banged our way into a stiff southeasterly all the way to Boca Grand.  Man, were we starting to get SALTY.  All the bronze was green with envy.  Put Sticky Fingers on the Sony.We spent the night on the hook off Useppa Is. and dinghied over to Cabbage Key for a celebration of our arrival in our (second) home waters.  Supposably, this is where that sellout Jimmy Buffet wrote cheeseburgers in paradise, so we had one and some cerveza mas fina.  It was dimmned GOOD.  Another rousing sail for 20 miles up Charlotte Harbor with too much sail up, and we were at PG, anchored off Fisherman's village, dinghy docked at Grandma's and putting up the murdered Frasier fir tree.  Hie Ho!

14 December 2011

YOU DID THAT ON PORPOISE





     We finally left Fairhope after two months of relaxing, boat work, and traveling to Norco, LA to tend to our brother/-in-law Gary.  He’s recovering from the loss of his Left Foot (remember the movie with Daniel Day Lewis)  and working on PT and hoping for a prosthetic for Christmas.  Feeling much better after getting rid of the infection. 
     Fly Creek (Fairhope) didn’t want to let us go.  It was low low tide (a north wind blows the water out of Mobile Bay) so when we threw off the lines and reved the engine we didn’t move. We were stuck in the mud.  Jan was determined to go, so she rocked the boat and I gunned it, and we slipped out of their grasp.  Even the channel to the bay read less than 5 on the depth finder.  After a rollicking sail south 20 miles, we turned left into the Intracoastal, passed a dredge and a shrimp boat in the channel and again had trouble finding more than 6’ of water.  STRESS! Things were cool (actually very cold) as we headed east through the condos and barrier islands of Gulf Shores, Orange Beach, past Pirates Cove, into Santa Rosa Sound, and east towards Destin(y). What a (vacation) Elysian playground.  White beaches, dozens of dolphins, beaucoup bays, sounds, inlets, and coves.  When the sun shines it’s gorgeous even in the cool December.  And the sunsets are unparalleled.  “ I want to see the ocean bend/ The edges of the sun and/ I want to be swallowed up/ In an ocean of love”  Lucinda Williams.  Second cup of coffee, warmed cinnamon roll, ½ of a cigarette, picking out the red and green bouys into the morning sunblaze.  Finally above 60 F.  “If you think I’m happy, you’re right.”  Six Days on the Road. 
     This morning, a free airshow of the military “flying bricks with a rocket strapped to them”  (F- 16s?/ 17s?/ -19s?.  The dolphins/porpoises  (www. dolphinworld.org/stories/dolphins-vs-porpoises-story.htm) are very friendly and inquisitive and swim with us in our bow wave.  Coming out of Destin cut into the Gulf, Jan was engrossed in their play and I was distracted by the funky schooners and ketches in the harbor so we missed a green bouy and bumped hard sand. This was in a winding channel with a 2 knot current on a falling tide on the first morning outside in the Gulf.  Whew, another close scrape, and, hopefully another lesson learnded the semi-hard way.  Pass nun gut auf!
  We plan to cross the Gulf this weekend from Appalachicola to Clearwater, Fl , an offshore journey of 150 miles. It should be a journey of a day, a night, and a day.  “Such a night”. We’ll wait for some northerly breezes to help us on our way.  Wish us luck.  Happy Holidays to you all, each and every one.  Dave and Jan abd. S/V Visitor   Wetappo Creek- Fla Pamhandle